Turnsole and method of making same



F. E. BERTRAND. TURNSOLE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

APPLICATION FILED MAR 19, 1920.

Patented Mar-'21, 1922.

UNITED STATES FREDERIG E. BERTRAND, OF LYNN, .MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITED SHOE PATENT OFFICE.

MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PA'IERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or New JERSEY.

TURNSOLE AND. METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

" T all w 710m it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREDERIO E. B m- TRAND, a citizen of theUnited States, residing in Lynn, in the county Of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain'new and useful Improvements in Turn-' soles and Methods of Making Same; andI do hereby declare the following to bea full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will'enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. p

This invention relates to a method of preparing soles for use in the manufacture of turn -shoes and to the novel turn sole 'produced by practicing the method. The present application is a division from a co-pending application of the present inventor for sole machines, Serial No. 259,568, filed October 24, 1918.

The stock from which'turn soles are out isnot of even thickness, or weight, from heel to toe. As those skilled in the art are aware the present method offitting turn soles does not produce, on a soleof variable thickness, a channel and shoulder cut of equal depth, while maintaining an exposed edge of uniform thickness which is essential. If the sole blanks are evened or reduced to a uniform thickness before going to the fitting machine, the edge, shoulder and channel may all be produced with the desired dimensions, but shoe manufacturers object to having their soles evened for the reason that a substantial percentage of the stock is wasted by this operation. The disadvantages of the present practice are fully explained in the inventors Letters Patent of the United States Nos. 1,236,660 and]1,236,661, granted August 14, 1917 for a machine and method of making mock welt turn soles from blanks of variablethickness. Many turn shoesare provided-with a thin edged shank, the soles used therein having had the margin or feather at each side along the shank skived to reduce the edge thickness at this portion of the .sole, which operation is known as channel shank reducing. -Other turn soles, especially for slippers and house shoes, are provided with a thin or feather edge throughout the length of the channel. The machine and method of said prior patents is not adapted to making turn soles having a feather edge at any portion of their periphery. A further disadvantage occurs in prac- Application filed math 19, 1920. Serial No. 367,169.

Specificationof Letters Patent. Pa,tented 113,13 1922.

ticingthe method referred to in thatthe margin, or feather, finally producedisnot smooth and unbroken. This detracts from the appearance .of the finished shoe. vA primary object of the present invention is to produce a turn sole of either the mock weltxor feather edged type from a blank of variable thickness having ashoulder of uni form depth, an edgefof uniform thickness and a smooth marginal surface extending from the shoulder to the edg The usual channel will have a depth equal to: that of the shoulder.

Thisvobject is accomplished, according'to the illustrated manner of ractising the invention', 'by first determining the depth of shoulder and thickness of edge required, for

the type of sole to be produced and the weight of the sole blank, and then by vary depth of the shoulder, and also the channel,

is gaged from the fleshsi'de of the sole.

I The manner of practicing the method is best illustrated by the novel sole shown in the accompanying drawings, in whichFigure 1 shows a partially fitted turn sole in i I plan, on the shank of which the presentmethod is to be. practiced; Fig. 2 shows the same sole after the shank has been feather edged; and Figs. 3 and 4 show cross-sections of a' featherfedged turn sole produced by the present method, at two points where the thickness of the blank difi'ers.

As generally illustrative of the invention the method of making a turn sole having a feather edged shank and mock welt forepart will be described. A1 blank, varying in thickness, as is usual, is'shown in Fig. 1 as fitted with a continuous channel 6 for sewed heel seat work, a mock welt forepart edge 8 and a mock welt heel seat edge 10. This fitting may be performed with any turn sole channeling machine, for example, the Goodyear universal channeler disclosed in the Bertrand Patent No. 1,030,704, June 25, 1912 but preferably with the improvements disclosed in Patent No. 1,236,660, August 14, 1917 hereinbefore referred to. Thedepth of the shoulder having thus been determined and the desired thickness of the edge at the shank being known, the sole, illustrated in Fig. 1,

is submittedto a second fitting operation to produce the feather edgedsh'ank. Inthis operation a shouldering knife of the usual angular form having a"flatbladefor-cutting" the feather is run along the shank at each side betweensthe ends of the forepart and heel seat mockwelt vertex of the cuts. The shoulder angle of this knife, where the shoulder and featherbladesthereof meet, is maintain d in a plane parallel to thefiesh side of thesole and a distance below said side equal to the depth of themock weltshoul'der and channel, 1. a, it travels alonga line indicated by 12 n 3 and" 4). The feather cutting blade, however' is turned angula rl about'said vertex asa centergeither up or dmyn, asmay be required byyariations in the sole thickness throughout "the shank, so as to maintain themreaedge frhe cut always in a planeparallel to the-grain side of thesole" and a distance above saidfside equal to therequiredthickness'of the edge,

. i., it travels along ajjlineinclicated b 14 (Figs. 3 and In this way, a smoothsurface 16-1is preserved extending thronghout the width of the margin or feather from the shank shou1der18 to the uniformedge QO, 'it-be assumed that there are no sharp variations in the thickness of thesole. -How'ever, in any case, said "surface will be as smooth as thefaces of the sole near its edge, since said surface is generated by a straightline traveling'along the sole, connecting the base of the shouldera'nd the top of the edge and being approximately normal to said edge and shoulders l n -While it is preferred, in making the turn sole justdescribed, that the first step shall consist in fitting parts of the soleother than the shank, and then .shouldering and reducing the shank,-itis be understood that the shankma befitted first and theother parts of the so e then provided with a marginal shoulder and channel; If the sole is tobe incorporated in a turn'shoe having afna'iled heel seat the fitting wouldfthen be stopped substantially at thebreast use; a G

Obviously the described method of making a feather edged shank maybe employed in fitting any portionof the periphery of the sole blank, as in making featheriedged instead of mock welt turn soles, and hence; the method is not limited to the shank reducing operation alone' Noris it limited to mak} ing feather edges since the principle maybe employed to eq a advantage in making mock welt edges. s g a While the invention may be practiced by hand,the care and skill required ofthe workman makes it desirable to utilize amachine such, for example, as that described and claimed in said parent application Serial thickness which thickness which consists "definitely stated in its true scope in the following claims.

1s:- e. c

1. That improvement in the method of making turn soles from blanks of variable consists in making a shoulder of uniform depth and varying the inclination of the'cu't extending from the bottom ofthe shoulder to the edge of the sole in accordance with the'thickness; of the Whatis claimed as new,

sole to produce an edge of'uni'form thickness.

2. That improvement in the method of making turn soles from blanks of variable in making a shoulder of uniform depth and a marginal or feather cut extending at an inclination to the grain side'which is greater or less as the thickness ofthe sole increases or decreases, to producea uniform edge. f

3. That improvement in the method of making-turn soles from blanks ofvariable thickness which consists in makingfparallel marginal channel and shoulder cuts of substantially the same depth from the fleshside of the sole, and in reducing the edge of the feather defined by the shoulder-cutto a uniform thickness by a single out which at any point along said edge extends in a straight line from said edge to said shoulder.

4. That'improvement in the method of fitting the marginal portions of turn soles which comprises making a shoulder cut in the fleshside having an even depth regardless of avarying thickness in the sole blank, and removing all the material 'ofthe feather above'a surface generated bya straight line connecting the base of'the shoulder and the upper corner of an edge of uniform thickness.

A turn sole having a'bo'dy portion of varying thickness, a portion at leastof the margin of which is provided with a shoulder of uniform depth, an edge of'uniform"'thi'ckbees, and a smooth surface connecting the shoulder and the edge. g

6. A turn sole having a body portion of varying thickness, a portion at least of the margin of which-is provided with a shoulder of uniform depth below the flesh side of the sole,an edge of uniform thickness-above the grain side of the sole, and a surface between a the shoulder and the edge extending at an angle to the edge varying with thethickness of'the sole. v l

7, A turn sole having a body portion of varying thickness, a portion at least of the margin of Which isprovided with a channel and shoulder of equal uniform depth, a feather having an edge ofunitorm thickness, and a surface connecting the shoulder and edge and generated by a straight line con nectingthe base of the shoulder and the top of the edge.

FREDERIC E. 'BERTRANDQ Certificate of Correction.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No 1,410,157, granted March 21, 1922,

upon the application of Frederic E. Bertrand, of Lynn, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Turnsoles and Methods of Making Same, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 2, line 8, for the Words vertex of the read shoulder, and line 9, for the Word shoulder read @ertew of the; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 19th day of September, A. D, 1922.

[SEAL] WM. A. KINNAN,

Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

